Sunday, January 6, 2019

#spirit of 2019

Zak the Baker:

Tech Bros and Crumb Shots

Note that Ed Espe Brown and Tassajara Bread, inspirations for Ninth Street Bakery prior to 1981, are noted in this article as grandaddys of the artisan bread movement long before Tartine and Chad Robertson.


Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Best of 2018

Local Instagram Story: Kelsey Dawson

Sandwich Shop: Ko Kyu Na'mean

Public Sculpture: Gay Scissors on Foster

Downtown Style: Sarah Thornton

Local Tweet: Major the Bull

Farmer Styles: Gordon and Vera, 10 Mothers Farm

Vegetable Art: Phil Blank,

Hardest Working Restaurateur: Oren Weiss, Soom Soom Pita Pockets

Value: Pupuseria Anita

Anticipated Opening: The Basement Kitchen at Accordion Club

Action Bronson Video:

Pizza-making Nerdery:

Bartender: Kelsey Dawson (Ponysaurus, Accordion Club)

Brunch: The Happy Meal at Accordion Club (Hatch Breakfast Burrito, Shot of Tequila, Pickleback, Shitty Plastic Toy, Pony High Life, Sundays only)

Pop-up Dinner: Little Rocket Man

Local Baking Instagram:

Beer: Edward, Hill Farmstead

Donut: Cruller, Jack Tar Diner

Album: Jassbusters, Connan Mockasin

Song: Big Shot, Kendrick Lamar

NSB Charitable Action: Sending relief to Duplin County via Just Florence

Soup: Posole, Guanajuato

Beards: Finn Katz; Joel Guerreo

Local Beer: Hopfly Anniversary IPA

Beigel Bake, Brick Lane

Tuesday, October 30, 2018

Squirrel Hill, PA

Our thoughts and prayers go out to the families and communities affected by the Tree of Life Synagogue tragedy. Props to all who attended the vigil Sunday in CCB plaza - while I never thought I would have to recite Mourners Kaddish with Major the Bull, I prayed for the day when we can ban assault weapons in the US and put a dent in these psychotic shootings that leave communities ripped apart. 

Please contribute by being as politically active as you feel comfortable and opposing legislators that work against gun regulation.

Thursday, October 25, 2018

Bread is an intensive surface

Image result for dogon egg deleuze

"The Earth is a body without organs. This body without organs is permeated by unformed, unstable matters, by flows in all directions, by free intensities or nomadic singularities, by mad or transitory particles"

Wednesday, October 3, 2018

J Gold, Belated Obit

J Gold, the food critic who democratized the nation's palate, RIP. If you haven't seen City of Gold, this is a must-watch for any self-proclaimed foodie. In many ways I think of him in my travels to try every mediocre restaurant in Durham, tingling with those very mixed up feelings of futility, anthropology, discovery, banality, and a requisite amount of anticipatory excitement. May we all be as obsessed with something as Gold was with the cultural landscape of gastronomy.

Sunday, September 30, 2018

MTN Venice Ramen

little rocket man closes / a tribute to toast

one of my favorite menus from the now-closed little rocket man.

the initial ideas for the menu were:

Carolina Jammer - ricotta, jam, herbs
Avo - Avocado, masala, almonds
Pan con Tomate - Cherry Tomatoes, olive oil, flake salt
Scuttlebutt - hard boiled egg, pimenton aioli, pickles, herb mix
(tribute to saltie)
Mama's Boy - Butter, Cinnamon, Sugar
use unsliced bricohe, unsliced country loaf

Wednesday, September 5, 2018

To Be a Baker

Image result for chad robertson
Chad Robertson

To Be a Baker

what does it take?

a personality type.
a calm neurotic

like chad robertson
tall and rangey
to be a baker
waking before daybreak, working physically hard before daybreak,
it's a push to the last loaf,
here you stand before the oven, to stand underground and bake bagels,
carry the flour back centuries to
your ancestors, with
poppy seed, sesame, and flax.  

It’s a blue planet,
Powered by calories derived from bread,
The technological revolutions,
In our Modernity,
There was bread,
Religious warfare,
And the bread as ritual.

An evolution,
Of bread and of society,
From bourgeosie to poverty,
In every neighborhood and shtetl.

Thursday, August 30, 2018

Underground Man

"Er ligt in der erd un bakt beygl."
"He lies underground and and bakes bagels"
- Old Yiddish saying to describe a person depressed.

Task Switching

Baking is a controlled task switching exercise.  I might have three doughs to mix, one rack in the oven, three employees forming loaves, and a meeting about to walk in in an hour.  There is a necessary schizoid property to this that goes beyond your everyday short order cook kind of multi-tasking.  It is a sensation of juggling that ends up feeling like a runner's high.  Ernest Hemingway always liked to finish the day by leaving his last sentence unfinished.  To conceive of work as a flow, where one might drop in like a wave, is a means to be enmeshed in the world, and to achieve an immanence impossible in ordinary life.  The moment you tie up your apron like it was an obi, you enter into a world where you might as well be tapping a spiderweb with a tuning fork, and waiting for the resonance, set a whole series of events into motion.