Friday, April 8, 2022
Thursday, April 7, 2022
Saturday, March 26, 2022
Sunday, March 13, 2022
Ingredient Costs and Supply Disruptions
As ingredient and materials costs have increased 40%+ since January, it has become increasing difficult to manage, not to mention periodic shortages of basic items, like cake boxes, hazelnuts, even cream cheese. We have also seen increases in wages to keep staff on their jobs during Covid, and now these inflation-related costs make me fearful of what the future holds. With our ingredient costs running over half a million dollars a year, 40% is hundreds of thousands of dollars, while our profit margins typically are no more that 5%. Doing the math makes me scared. Hopefully the pain will alleviate soon.
Tuesday, March 1, 2022
Thank you
There are many reasons to buy local. From the bottom of our heart, we thank those customers that chose to support us and other local producers through these last two years of the pandemic. Your support has made all the difference.
Monday, February 14, 2022
Saturday, February 12, 2022
No More Black Boxes
In 2007, at age 28, I made the very characteristic, but very fated move to go into business with my best friend. It failed, as one might suspect, and we broke up as friends, also probably suspected.
Monday, February 7, 2022
Small changes, minimal difference
There is a point at which a soup is perfectly salted. Yet approaching that point, and going over it, there is a band of acceptability.
Monday, January 10, 2022
Sunday, December 19, 2021
Best of 2021
New Beer: Master Shredder by The Veil
Saturday, December 11, 2021
A Return to Hill Farmstead
After visiting Hill Farmstead in 2018, I thought I had reached the proverbial mountaintop. I had kept in touch with owner Shaun Hill since, and petitioned for a monthlong internship this past July, which I was lucky enough to land. As you could probably imagine, it was a holy grail, once in a lifetime moment for me, and was meant to be a respite as well from the burnout I had experienced through the pandemic. Hill Farmstead has been voted best brewery in the world eight times. Ostensibly, I was there to learn the craft and possibly start a brewery when I returned, or simply get more deep into homebrewing. What I came away with was much more.
Once I arrived in Greensboro (VT), I’m in there on the brew cellar floor where the magic happens and the first four or five days I’m just furtively asking questions like I might be able to take something away immediately, and by the fifth day or so I realize, oh my gd, how little I know. In my diary, it literally reads, "I've learned just enough to learn how little I know." You could study beermaking for years and still feel like an amateur, a poser, upon landing at Hill Farmstead.
In breadmaking, I would say there are twenty-five critical control (process) points, whereby if you screw something up at any of those points, your resulting loaf will be suboptimal. For beer, I would say it's closer to one hundred. Shaun and his team are brewing, then fermenting, dry-hopping, transferring, conditioning in a fermenter, foudre, puncheon, or wine barrel, and then bottling, and bottle conditioning until finding the optimal time to open, market, and present the beer to the thirsty public. It's so fucking tough, and makes breadmaking look easy by comparison. Yes, you can make really mediocre beer really easily, just as one can make mediocre bread. But if you drink your way through the HF catalogue, you'll see this unrivaled attention to detail, to craft, that makes it just one of the best in the world. The quality of the beer is directly proportional to the sophistication and predilections of Shaun's palate, as well as his meticulous attention to detail. "There is no Shaun," he said once, his nut-brown eyes glinting, "I am the brewery." I told him he had a book, or several books in him, as the beer not only is great, but is often accompanied by his personal philosophy as it is rendered through ancient and modern philosophers, as well as his ancestors that worked the very land that he brews on and sources some of his ingredients and water.
Sunday, December 5, 2021
All Hail the Pep Cup (Review)
Some say the circle is the divine shape, but lovers of pizza know that the square is the true test of the pizzaiolo’s skill. I love pizza. Who doesn’t love pizza? But do we have opinions about it? Sure? Are they subjective? Yes. Who is this guy anyway? Also, fuck pizza, right? But shit, I will never stop eating it.
Those thick, square slices (also known as Sicilian) can be topped with any number of options, but they’re best when teeming with pep cups—tiny, sliced, cured meats that, when exposed to high temperatures, flex concave, like seedlings yearning for the light. Unlike the thin bland pepperoni slices that typically top a pizza, they’re salty and spicy, full of garlic and umami, not to mention thicker and chewier than ordinary pepperoni. Little orbs of unctuous goodness. Little flying saucers of gold.
The Triangle happens to have two of the best pep cup slices in North Carolina (imo). Coronato and DiFara Pizza each swagger like two heavyweights in the ring for Sicilian pie dominance.
Coronato is crust-to-crust, wall-to-wall pep cups, all completely inverted as they should be, with a little bit of crispy char for flavor and texture balance. For DiFara, some pep cups are braised (mmm...braised cured meats) into the cheese and sauce, yielding a different meaty mouthfeel altogether, some charred inconsistently. A hot slice of Difara is swimming in a soupy delicious sauce, whereas Coronato covers their pie in generous grated Parm.
The way each restaurant sets up and handles their pie dough influences the final product. The piemakers at Difara press each piece into the mold prior to baking while the makers at Coronato set up the dough, chill it, and then slightly deflate it using their fingers prior to topping.
The result is that DiFara is more like pizza, and Coronato is more like focaccia. It depends what you like, but one would have to say that DiFara is the more “authentic” (shit, I hate that word) pie.
And you wouldn’t think sauce would be the difference-maker, but the cooked San Marzano sauce at DiFara, surprisingly black-peppery, almost obscures the cheese. The shreds of basil scissored onto the pie that gives a slight hint of herbaceousness, cutting the lactose intensity of the browned mozz.
Both pies go into very well seasoned (olive-oiled) pans, which yield the best fried toast crust you could ever imagine, cooked to perfection in a high temperature oven in a thick pan.
Like a momma choosing their favorite child, it’s hard to pick just one, but for my money, DiFara outlasts Coronato. The dough to sauce texture is superior, and the sauce is better— it doesn’t matter how many cups you load on there (and trust me, Coronato will go down swinging).
Saturday, November 6, 2021
The Science of Sourdough for the Gluten Sensitive
Tuesday, November 2, 2021
In Memoriam: Mary Beth Bishop
Tuesday, October 19, 2021
Thursday, September 30, 2021
Covid Diary December 16 to September 30
12-16
Poverty and shooting mar Durham during Covid: https://indyweek.com/news/durham/shootings-drugs-hayti-district/
12-20
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/12/20/us/covid-thanksgiving-effect.html
Moving forward: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/19/opinion/sunday/trump-presidency-accountability.html
The death of independent restaurants: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/19/opinion/sunday/restaurants-closing-covid.html
12-23
Homeschooling exacerbates stratification, putting families on different playing fields: https://indyweek.com/news/orange/neighborhood-support-circles-refugee-community-partnership/
12-28
“If you can come up with a vaccine in a year, why are we sitting in a community where there is no grocery store with fresh fruits and vegetables.”
https://twitter.com/nhannahjones/status/1343716480421138438
12-30
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/30/opinion/promote-black-vaccination.html
My year-end wrap: https://indyweek.com/news/durham/opinion-berenbaum-year-we-learned-hate/
12-31
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/31/opinion/coronavirus-vaccines-expiring.html
The reality of nursing homes: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/31/opinion/sunday/covid-nursing-homes.html
My dad, a medical center physician, in his corny dad way, has renamed Operation Warp Speed Operation Dead Speed, attesting to its dysfunction and slowness.
1-2
The social fabric of America is unraveling: https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/02/us/crime-poverty-pandemic-cleveland.html
1-6
Trump rioters invade the Capitol: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJt7l5AFrZ6vUjJGbsDhwfwTcYbOD6rxEfI6zw0
We've come undone.
1-18
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/18/opinion/biden-covid-19-plan.html
1-19
Where I ask over email our DDI and downtown business leaders not to reopen too fast and the reaction I got:
Sorry to use this thread for something off topic, but has there been any interest in pushing on City Council to do another shutdown? I'm getting many more anecdotal case reports from supermarket workers, baristas, grocery owners, etc. Our staff is coming to work every day anxious now. I know a shutdown similar to April is not business-friendly, but I think we need to put public health first here. We posted the attached to IG, FB, and Twitter and got positive responses/views.Hi Ari—
This is a very difficult decision and one where the arguments on both sides are compelling. My personal opinion is that while a complete shutdown of businesses may cause numbers to trend down, it will also put a number of individuals in an even more precarious position—restaurant and retail and other small business employees not having steady or reliable incomes (and in some cases medical insurance). I believe that the restaurants in downtown are doing everything they absolutely must (and in many cases going beyond the bare minimum) to ensure that they remain open and their employees (and customers) remain safe and healthy. The added resources and assistance from Greenlight Durham provides additional assistance in tracking of cases, listing of testing sites, and other COVID-related resources.
I won’t argue as to why the numbers are increase (eating out vs small family/intimate gatherings indoors). However, by allowing small businesses to stay open, the owners can decide what the appropriate response/answer is for their given situation and in downtown we are seeing each business owner decide what makes the most sense for not just the business operations but, in many cases, what is the most responsible thing to do to protect employees. Due to a lack of any significant and comprehensive federal, state, and/or local small business assistance, it is difficult to advocate for a complete shutdown as this would place an intense financial stress (on top of the stress many businesses are already carrying).
These are my personal thoughts. It is a difficult situation we are in and I think many thought we’d be a little further along in combating this virus. Regardless, as we continue to move forward, no matter how slowly, it remains difficult to plan when there’s so much uncertainty. I rely on the one-on-one conversations I have with multiple business owners in downtown to try and advocate what makes the most sense and provides the most benefit to the overall downtown business community. The wants and needs of a restaurant owner vs a salon owner vs a retail shop vs a live venue space are so varied and each must be considered. I continue to believe that the business owners in downtown will operate in a safe and responsible manner.
Nicole Thompson
President & CEO
Downtown Durham, Inc.
Thanks for sending. I appreciate your thoughts. Just to be clear, I would still encourage restaurants to do takeout and outdoor dining. I think that is the best path until most of the vaccines are distributed. I think the fact that the mayor and city council have not enforced any type of stay-at-home order with the exception of going out for food/supplies/etc. (as we did in April) is foolhardy and leading to needless disease and death. Evidently we've become numb to the numbers of the sick and dying and have accepted it as a byproduct of our need to keep things open through this surge in cases. The fact that most of the disease burden falls on lower income folks just reinforces my distaste for how this has been handled.
| County | Total Cases | Total Deaths | Date | Rate Per 10,000 | % of all cases by date | New Cases | New Deaths | 7 Day New Cases Avg | Cases per 10,000 last 7 days | Cases per 10,000 last 14 days |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Durham | 17,826 | 158 | Jan, 19 | 554.5 | 2.61 | 200 | 1 | 178 | 39 | 79 |
| Durham | 17,626 | 157 | Jan, 17 | 548.3 | 2.58 | 264 | 7 | 180 | 39 | 76 |
| Durham | 17,362 | 150 | Jan, 15 | 540.1 | 2.55 | 201 | 3 | 186 | 41 | 79 |
| Durham | 17,161 | 147 | Jan, 14 | 533.8 | 2.52 | 175 | 1 | 198 | 43 | 78 |
| Durham | 16,986 | 146 | Jan, 13 | 528.4 | 2.49 | 136 | 1 | 195 | 43 | 79 |
| Durham | 16,850 | 145 | Jan, 12 | 524.1 | 2.47 | 130 | 0 | 195 | 42 | 77 |
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/opinion/joe-biden-2020-campaign-democrats.html
1-20
We know that the new variant of Covid is out there and may be 50% more transmissible and we are still not locking down.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variant_of_Concern_202012/01
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/20/health/coronavirus-variants-immunity.html
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/health/coronavirus-variant-california.html
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/well/live/covid-b117-variant-advice.html
1-21
The UK struggles: https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/21/world/europe/uk-hospitals-covid-variant.html
1-22
This American Life on the Capitol Riots: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-american-life/id201671138?i=1000506432552
1-25
15 Durhamites died last week of Covid. How many more need to die before the city takes steps to keep people from gathering and mixing?
Tuesday, September 14, 2021
Thursday, September 9, 2021
Vernon Mitchell
It is here that we recognize and pay tribute to the memory of baker Vernon Mitchell who passed away this past Monday from a pancreatic cancer that took him all too soon. Vernon was a gentle giant, over 6'4'', long and lanky with a warm smile, great sense of humor, and an easygoing way about him. He was with the bakery only four months, but we will miss him dearly. He is survived by a loving family and friends.
Thursday, August 19, 2021
Shopsin's
Hard to believe he's been gone three years. Kenny Shopsin RIP
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/04/obituaries/kenny-shopsin-dead.html


