After hearing much from my old friend Alex Ruch about Bellegarde Bakery of New Orleans, I was finally able to visit to watch him bake and even help out one morning. A polymath and Duke Lit alumnus, Alex works part-time for Bellegarde when not professing at Tulane. Bellegarde's breads were inspiring, much in part due to the vision and zeal of owner Graison Gill. Graison has to be one of the most principled, intense bakers I have ever met. Read his statement of philosophy on their website, and you will get a small impression of his focus and drive. He is currently milling two varieties of wheat on site. It was a thrill to hold just-milled soft fine wheat, still warm from the grinding stones.